The last of the cities we visited was described to us as “gritty”. Many of the buildings were made from a volcanic rock that was dark grey and a bit rough in texture. As we walked through the open air market vendors would call out to us to try their with fresh produce, fish and meats. I became a bit squeamish at the sight of the head of the swordfish advertised its availability as did the pig’s head, a freshly butchered lamb and even rabbits.
On to the Castle Ursino which looked like it was straight out of a medieval fairy tale. The walls totally dwarfed us they were massive! Looking down we could see excavations to show where the moat used to be now all grassy.
We admired the Church of Saint Agatha which is currently being restored. As a quilter, I kept seeing beautiful pattens in the mosaic floors. Bellini’s tomb was housed there and the remains of “the angel of charity", Blessed Cardinal Giuseppe Benedetto Dusmet. He was renowned for his carrying the Veil of St Agatha in a procession as an eruption of Mount Etna was threatening the town of Catania. After the Veil was carried and days of prayer, the eruption halted.
Hungry after all our touring about, we stopped at a restaurant with the name of “Mm!” near the fish market. Our guide Jaime was eating the lentil soup so I tried it as well, delicioso! It had lentils with Mazzara prawns, mussels, octopus and Salicornia. Jim had the tuna grilled with tuna balls and a salad Jim still raves it’s the best he had ever had!
After lunch a quick bus ride to the port where and old factory had been transformed into the Museo Storico Dello Sbarco in Sicilia, the Sicilian Landing during WW2 in 1945. This fascinating place has it set up as if you were just entering the town of Catania in 1945. After a brief look around the town square you hear air raid sirens and you are rushed into a fallout shelter! As you sit, you hear sirens blaring and feel the percussion of bombs landing near our shelter. When at last the all clear sounds, you exit and see how the town has been flattened. Jamie told us how the landing was nearly a disaster as the high winds blew the parachuting soldiers into the bay. Next along the path were wax figures of the important leaders from World War 2, the diminutive Vittorio Emanuelle III as well as Mussolini, Churchhill, Roosevelt and Hitler.
As a photographer I was thrilled to see the next exhibit on the photos of Phil Stern. This photographer was described by Ezio Costanzo as “ That man immortalized Sicily and its people during the war, landing as young photographer on a sunny beach of Licata. An after seventy years, he was sitting by the sea, rebuilding episodes, humanity, languages , meanings. He had been a liberator. One of those soldier who came in Europe to die in order to give its people freedom and democracy” In Phil’s words though “ I did not know the war, but once inside the only way to endure it was not to think about it. If I went back I would not do it anymore.. It was a stupid decision to voluntarily enlist in the army. Many people died and I can only feel lucky to have survived.” Excellen photography!
Walking around before dinner, we saw several folks setting up their sewing machines right on the street! (We turned the wrong way from the hotel!) Just a few steps away was another Colliseum, although this one was below street level and is only seen in excavations. We did some shopping in the fashionable areas and then off for a glass of wine before dinner!
Lisa and Mark toast! Looking forward to seeing them in July!
Food in Catania
The whole group was together and we toasted our last evening together Off to MeCumpari Turiddu (https://www.mecumparituriddu.it/en/)
the same restaurant with the same menu that actor Stanley Tucci had when he was here! Fabulous homemade breads including one with black pork sausage. Primi was Pasta alla Norma just tasty with Sicilian eggplant. The Secondo was slow food with nedbrodi black pork, Bronte pistachio, Ragusa caciocallo cheese, with olive oil and Trapani salt with spinach. The Dolce was Almon blancmange with vanilla and carob sauce. Accompanying this delicious repast was a Tenuta Dell’Abate Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot. Totally best meal of the week!
